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Our Trip Around The World: Another Chapter From My Autobiography

From: Mrs. Tom Thumb's Autobiography
Creator: Lavinia Warren (author)
Date: October 21, 1906
Publication: New York Tribune Sunday Magazine
Source: Available at selected libraries


Introduction

Lavinia Warren’s series of articles in the New York Tribune in 1906 contains many references to her seemingly constant travels. As a performer, she traveled by steam throughout North America, Europe, Asia, and even Australia. The following article, the third in the series, gives a taste of the peripatetic life she led.


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1  

Continuing our tour of the world, we left Singapore for Point de Galle, Ceylon, where we arrived January 11, 1870. Point de Galle was then used as the calling station for steamers between Suez, India, China, and Australia. We gave three entertainments in the Military Barracks. On the seventeenth we left Galle for Colombo, the capital of Ceylon, seventy-two miles distant, chartering two mail coaches for the purpose. There were relays of horses every six miles, as they were driven at a full run between stations. Our coach was driven by a native, accompanied by a single guard with a brass horn. It was the guard's duty to clear the road of native bullock and buffalo teams so as afford an uninterrupted way.

2  

At Columbo we found a fine hotel kept by an Englishman. The rooms were all that could be desired in appointments. Our surprise at finding a sheet spread on the dining table was equaled only when we found the table cloth doing duty as a sheet on the bed. Things seemed to have evened up. When we interviewed the landlady in relation to exchanging the pillow case, which we found beside our wash bowl, for a towel, she loudly bewailed her inability to make "these people" have any idea of the proper use of things. One of them, having spilled gravy on the floor, and being bidden to wipe it up, she said she found him calmly wiping it up with a table napkin which he the wrung into the teapot.

A Visit in Columbo
3  

Another of the Cingalese towns we visited was surrounded by a mud wall. Its location, however, is pleasant and healthy, and doubtless that explains the fact that during the hot weather the Governor and suite leave Columbo and come here, thus giving it the distinction of being practically the capital for part of the year. It has been much improved since the railway was constructed.

4  

We were invited to a "Kenip," and accepted, to find it was what at home is called a raffle. The object raffled, or should I say "ke-nipped," was a watch, which Minnie won.

5  

Leaving Ceylon, we set out on what was destined to be the most adventurous, and in many ways the most interesting, part of our tour, the visit to Australia.

6  

We reached Melbourne on February 16, 1870, and received a warm welcome from the Australians. Melbourne might be called the Chicago of the Orient. Founded in 1837, in seventeen years, its population was one hundred thousand. When we were there, it had reached one hundred and seventy thousand, including its suburbs, Collingwood, Richmond, Kew, etc. We opened at Polytechnic Hall on the twenty-first to a full house, and for a month the hall was packed day and evening with enthusiastic audiences. The streets were thronged daily to see us ride to and from the hall.

7  

The Polytechnic was a fine and convenient hall, and its proprietor, Dr. L. L. Smith, M.P., was a most courteous, genial companion and warm hearted friend. His excellent wife deserved the highest encomiums. When leaving the Colonies, there were no persons from whom we parted with greater regret than Dr. and Mrs. Smith. He poessessed an excellent racing stable, and had been successful upon the turf. Having on the place at that time two fine colts, he named them Lavinia and Minnie. They both won several important races afterward. Dr. Smith, becoming a happy father shortly after our arrival, the new baby was named Minnie Lavinia, and I stood godmother at its christening.

8  

While we were in Melbourne a complimentary benefit was arranged by the leading citizens for Robert Heller, the celebrated prestidigitator, to take place at the Theater Royal, the largest theater in Australia (since destroyed by fire), and he applied to us as old friends to appear on the occasion. The performance was to consist of an exhibition by Mr. Heller, a concert, and our entertainment. One hour before the performance the theater was filled, and there was a mass of people on the street, unable to gain admittance. The same scene was enacted at the Polytechnic, where we were to give our regular performance the first part of the evening, and the overflow from both places filled all the other places of amusement. When we appeared there was a shout of welcome the like of which we had seldom heard. The men cheered, and the women waved their handkerchiefs. There were over three thousand five hundred persons within the walls. They filled the orchestra, sat upon the stage, hung upon the proscenium columns, climbed from the galleries, and sat upon the figures supporting the front of the private boxes. It was indeed a most flattening reception.

9  

There being at that time few railways in Australia, and they running only a short distance from Melbourne, Mr. Bleeker engaged two coaches and eight horses with which to traverse the country. We visited over twenty towns before reaching Ballarat, where we intended to stop. Ballarat was the center of the great Australian gold excitement; and to its teeming population was drawn from all parts of the world.

Fun at an Orphan Asylum
10  

We remained there for three weeks, visiting the various charitable institutions. We were much gratified in witnessing the pleasure evinced by the inmates, when they saw us, of whom they had heard. Even the smallest urchin in the orphan asylums of that distant land knew the name of General Tom Thumb, and to our surprise was well informed as to our relationship and movements. On one occasion, when the children were assembled before us, Mr. Bleeke, to test their knowledge, asked them whether the little people they looked upon were men and women, o childen like themselves. They replied almost in one voice '"It's Tom Thumb and his wife, Commodore Nutt and little Minnie Warren." One urchin about five years old, to give greater emphasis to his knowledge and judgment, shouted, "General Tom Thumb got married to Lavinia Warren by Barnum. That's Tom Thumb," pointing at the General, "and he's a man, cause cause got whiskers; and that's his wife," pointing at me, "and she's a woman cause she wears a big chig-non." That boy, we concluded, had a good head.

11  

From Ballarat we returned to Melbourne, and sailed for Launceston, Tasmania, arriving there May 26. The census just taken showed the population of the entire country as ninety-nine thousand. The circumstance of the island being situated at the southern end of the globe reverses the seasons in relation to ours. June, July, and August are the winter months, and December, January, and February the summer months. It took me some little time to used to this topsyturvy condition of the almanac, but somehow it seemed to be in harmony with the queer things and ways of the whole country. The mountains, which mostly bear Scotch and English names, are one thousand to forty-five hundred feet high.

12  

We traversed the island in our coaches, stopping at all towns within reach, without regard to population or position, for we found ourselves objects of much attention and interest everywhere, and money came in plentifully. At Oatlands (it seemed an appropriate name) we had to clear out a stable to give our performance. The stable belonged to the inn, where we stayed. We used the grain room as a dressing room, brushing the grain back to make space, and as we moved about a fringe of wheat and oats clung to our skirts and bedecked our trains.

13  

During our coach trip through this almost unknown country we had many odd experiences. One I remember particularly, was a source of merriment to the whole party for many days. We had traveled all day, and about five o'clock arrived at a small "station," where we were to spend the night. The proprietor greeted us cheerily, and comforted us greatly by the announcement that he would give us an "American supper." We were in just the condition to appreciate this, and exchanged congratulatory glances. Supper was served, and we were invited to regale ourselves on boiled punkin and boiled salt pork. Half starved and tired as we were, the situation was irresistibly funny, and for years after an allusion to an "American supper" would be greeted with peals of laughter.

14  

As the "station" contained only three rooms and one bed, the question of disposing of our party for the night became a serious problem. Mr. and Mrs. Bleeker were given the bed. The General and myself occupied the sofa, our length, or should I say the lack of it, enabling us to stretch out comfortably, feet to feet. Minnie was bestowed in the cradle, from which she persistently sung "Rock me to sleep mother," until assured by my husband that he rock her to sleep if he could find a rock big enough. The pianist and the Commodore secured the dining table and the rest arranged themselves as comfortably as they might, tired enough to rest almost anywhere.

Kangaroo Steak for Supper
15  

At another place, after a journey of over thirty miles, we found ourselves the guests of an old Scotchwoman, who was as nearly distracted by so large a party descending upon her. With native hospitality, however, she gave us welcome and soon set before us a fine supper of scones and kangaroo steak. This last had a piquant flavor from the fact that we had that day seen a giant fellow, which, clearing ten or fifteen feet at a bound, had passed very near us, without deigning to give us a glance. Our sleeping accommodations here were even worse than those we had experienced before; but we were young, tired, and good natured, and our hostess kind beyond expression, so we took the soft side of stools, table, and chairs, and slept the sleep of youth and fatigue.

16  

On June 27 we sailed again for Melbourne, and during the voyage experienced a gale which for severity had never been equaled in that quarter of the globe. We were joyfully received on our arrival, as many had given up the vessel for lost.

17  

There is a sandy desert intervening between the settlements in the western part of Victoria and those across the line in South Australia. As it would cause much delay in going several hundred miles to the coast and then having to wait for a passing steamer, Mr. Bleeker determined to cross the desert with our coaches. It was a perilous undertaking, but we had confidence in our manager and felt no fear. The mail was carried across once a week in a light vehicle. There were two lakes on the route, Alexandrina and Victoria, which were traversed by a little steamer built expressly to carry the small mail vehicle, and totally inadequate to one of our coaches. They were connecting lakes and were forty-five miles long, consequently we had to drive around them, a much greater distance. The proprietor of the vehicle that carried the mail came twenty miles to dissuade us from undertaking the journey; but Mr. Bleeker gave him a characteristic reply. "I am convinced," said he, "that I can go wherever man or horse can go; and where I go these little people will follow."

18  

Our grit was up, and we said, "Don't give it up. We'd rather sleep on the bare earth than be charged with lack of courage." We started, and the journey of over two hundred miles in six days, averaging thirty-three miles a day. We had been told we could not cover over sixteen. The only guide we had was the sun and the track made by the small mail wagon, and this was often entirely obliterated. As we approached the settlement the last day, we saw hundreds of kangaroos, wallabys, emus, adjutant birds, magpies, and great kingfishers. The lagoons were filled with black swan, wild ducks, pelicans, etc., and flying overhead were flocks of cockatoos. At noon we usually stopped and searched for fresh water, which was to be found only in holes dug beneath the sand by the drovers, who were compelled to bring their cattle across the desert to find a market. These wells fill during the rainy season, but many of them become dry. Around them would be lying the bleached skeletons of poor beasts, no doubt killed by excessive drinking after too long a thirst.

19  

The last day we journeyed thirty miles, and reaching the Murray River were ferried across to Wellington, a miserable little village half buried in sand. After performing in ten different towns, we arrived at Adelaide on August 8. We performed in the town hall, a magnificent building, for one week; it seated two thousand persons, and was filled at every entertainment.

20  

In going from Portland to Belfast we forded a river and had an exciting experience, as we came near being drowned. It was a dangerous undertaking, and our employees expressed their fears, so Mr. Bleeker said he would not insist upon their accompanying us. I had faced many perils and was anxious to try this new excitement. We left Portland about four o'clock in the morning, and drove twenty miles before we came to the river. It was about one-eighth of a mile wide, with a strong current, and evidently deep, being swollen by the rains.

21  

The actions and remarks of our guide were not very encouraging. He gazed up and down the river, and hesitatingly said, "It is greatly swollen."

22  

"Are you sure you know the ford?" inquired Mr. Bleeker.

23  

"Positive," replied he.

24  

Mr. Bleecker looked at us and asked, "Are you afraid to venture?"

25  

"I'll go if you go," said Mrs. Bleeker.

26  

"And we'll go wherever you go," said Minnie and myself.

27  

"All right " said the General and Commodore; we're no cowards."

28  

"We'll go," said Mr. Bleeker, and helped us into the coach. "Now mount and go ahead," said he to the guide, who did so, we following. We advanced, each moment deeper and deeper, until our coach was submerged and the water covered the floor. The driver, with failing heart, pulled up. This was the deepest water flowing over the bar.

29  

"Urge them! Urge the horses!" -- shouted the guide. The driver plied his whip about the horses' heads; but, half swimming, they scarcely had power to move the coach. It was a critical moment. With a tremendous effort at length they succeeded and we slowly emerged, and shortly afterward stood upon terra firma. We all remained silent during the passage, although we were caged like rats in a trap, with no chance of escape or rescue if we had rolled off the bar.

30  

We opened at Sydney on October 4, and performed for a season of three weeks with immense success, after which we proceeded to the north, visiting a large number of towns.

31  

While at Sydney the Duke of Edinburgh, the second son of Victoria, visited us several times at the hotel. The evening before our departure he honored us with his company at supper. His equerry, Sir Elliot York, accompanied him, and they remained with us until early morning. He complimented us with the remark that he had rarely passed so delightful an evening.

32  

Minnie's triumph began when the Duke invited her to the ball given in his honor by the Governor General. Minnie looked on it as a joke, and accepted in high glee, going in costume as "Little Red Riding Hood," while Commodore Nutt went as "Dandy Pat," a character less widely known, but excited much at that time. The two excited much attention; so much, especially after the Duke had danced several times with Minnie, that he carefully escorted her to the royal box to secure her from intrusion. She excited much envy and some jealousy; but with the impulsive independence of her American birthright, she ignored it all, and danced and flirted with the Duke, to his great delight. I tried to subdue her a little, but it was no use. She saw her opportunity and made the most of it, laughing to scorn the chidings of "old married people."

33  

She and the Duke became great friends, and when on one occasion he found her making lemonade at some gathering he avowed his intention of having some of that lemonade, though it invariably hurt him; to which Minnie laughingly, replied that it would be quite in keeping with her republican principles to "knock out" a possible King. Minnie's aptitude for slang was a source of constant anxiety to Mrs. Bleeker and myself. The crumbs of royal attention which fell to my share were only to act as Minnie's chaperon, and occasionally to sing while the Duke played my accompaniments.

34  

During a period of nine months, while in Australia, we traversed a distance of five thousand three hundred miles overland, nearly the entire distance by coach, and performed in one hundred and five cities and towns.

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